Peru - September 2019

Our First Time in South America.

It seems like a lifetime ago now.

We had originally planned this trip to be us cousins (me and Selena, Chris and Ben), our dads, and Kevin. I had planned the entire trip, everything was booked. Then a month and a half before the trip, Ben suddenly passed away. It was an extremely emotional time for all of us, and thinking back on it, it still is. In any case, we carried on and brought a part of him with us.

I don’t remember what drew me to Peru, or why we chose Peru for this cousins and dads trip.

It was probably one of those situations where, anecdotally, someone said (someone probably being me), “We should go to Peru,” or “I want to see Machu Picchu.” And then someone else (likely Ben or my dad) probably said, “Yeah, me too, that sounds like fun,” maybe even thinking I’d drop it, but instead, I ran with it. Yeah, that sounds like me.

Cusco is a good home base for lot of the “core” Peru experiences. From Cusco, it’s easy to visit the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu and Rainbow Mountain. There are, of course, other things to do like sandboarding in Huacachina, visiting the capital city of Lima, Lake Titicaca, even exploring the Amazon Rainforest (maybe that’s where the idea of visiting Peru came from). The city of Cusco sits at an elevation of over 11,000 feet above sea level. For comparison’s sake, Denver is at about 5,000 feet above sea level. That being said, I built in a couple days of taking it easy so that we could acclimate to the altitude change - and if you knew me back then, “taking it easy” was not my strong suit, but I’ve gotten a lot better.

This was my first time planning a trip internationally and for more than just a couple people, so I hired a couple of tour companies to help me out. The main event we wanted to do was see Machu Picchu. A friend of ours had done the Short Inca Trail with her mom and had recommended it to us. I did some research on it, brought it to the family and we all agreed that it would be something we could accomplish and would certainly be a fantastic way to experience Machu Picchu. I booked our excursion through Alpaca Expeditions, who would provide us with transportation to the start of the hike and a guide for every step of the way, as well as freshly prepared lunch while on the trail, dinner and a hotel in Aguas Calientes, the town nearest Machu Picchu. Alpaca Expeditions also offered guided tours to Rainbow Mountain, which I knew would need to be the very last day of our trip in order for us to maximize our acclimatization time.

I decided to book a hotel for the entire week, even though we wouldn’t be sleeping there the one night we were in Aguas Calientes. It was helpful to have a place to keep our luggage while we were on the Short Inca Trail. The Andenes al Cielo Hotel was affordable and within walking distance to the main square. The hotel also provided us with breakfast to go as we departed on our Short Inca Trail adventure! At the recommendation of the hotel, I reached out to Maureen, founder and owner of Unique Peru Tours. She created custom tours for the Sacred Valley, around Cusco and to hike Humantay Lake.

Despite my careful planning, one of us (ahem, Selena) got altitude sick. In retrospect, it’s quite funny. Okay, even at the time it was kind of funny. Within hours of landing in Cusco, Selena was exhausted - like, falling asleep at lunch, couldn’t walk more than a few steps at a time kind of exhausted. The hotel gave her coca tea and oxygen to help. Luckily, that was the worst of it - I’ve heard stories of people suffering much worse that they need to be hospitalized. But my point in this is two-fold. First, it doesn’t matter how young or fit you are, it can still affect you. Second, if you don’t feel well, take it easy and seek care if you need it.

I apparently only journaled the first day of the trip, so after that is based solely off my memory. Sorry!

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Cusco

The six of us flew together from JFK to Cusco with a layover in Bogota (prior to this, I had only heard of Bogota in Narcos - good show, by the way). We arrived in Cusco at about 10:00. Cusco airport is tiny. Immigration, baggage claim and customs are all in one room. Maureen with Unique Peru Tours had arranged a private transfer to pick us from the airport and bring us to the hotel. I had given her my dad’s name for the pick up, but there was someone waiting for an “Ariana Soto” and we were confused. Hopefully that person found who she was looking for.

Upon arriving at the hotel, the Andenes al Cielo Hotel, we each had to fill out paperwork as part of the check-in process. The rooms of the hotel are in a square, all of which face an open courtyard. Luckily, our room was on the second floor. Even though I didn’t experience altitude sickness, I felt the effects of the altitude - going up just that one flight of stairs, I could feel the lactic acid in my thighs, my heartrate was elevated and I felt out of breath - not to the point that I needed to stop and rest, but way more than I normally would feel for going up a flight of stairs.

Our first stop was lunch. We ventured to the main square, Plaza de Armas, figuring we’d find something there, and we did! We stumbled upon a big celebrated in the streets, which were closed to cars. The was a lot of music and dancers wore masks and costumes, performing in front of the cathedral. We ate at Calle de Medio for lunch. Exceeded expectations. The service and food were both spectacular. The altitude was affecting Selena pretty badly. The staff brought her coca and mint tea, and later, a pillow when she fell asleep at the table. She really just needed rest.

The food all tasted so fresh and pure and clean. The two dishes that stand out most in my mind are the salchipapas, or potatoes, were really good, as was the chaufa, Peruvian fried rice. We also got chicken wings which we spiced with cinnamon, chicken croquettes that had a curry flavor, octopus with chimichurri and mashed sweet potatoes, seafood rice and skewers of chicken, alpaca (tasted a little gamey to me) and ox heart (tasted like beef). The salchipapas were crispy potatoes with chicken sausage and garlic mayo. Apparently, Peru is known for potatoes and they have specialty potatoes that grow at high altitude.

Unfortunately, we had things to do before she could rest. We had to check in with Alpaca Expeditions for our upcoming tours, to finalize paperwork and get our t-shirts. Selena struggled hard walking but taking small steps. I’m pretty sure once this errand was complete, we headed back to the hotel slowly - as fast as Selena could go - so Selena could nap. She had to take a break along the way, so we sat on the steps of the cathedral and our dads bought some souvenirs after haggling. While Selena and Chris napped, the rest of us went to Jack’s Café down the street from our hotel for a cappuccino and just to hang out.

For dinner, my dad had made a reservation at Ceviche Seafood Kitchen. We ordered ceviche calle, ceviche barrio, aji de gallina (chicken and potato with curry-like sauce), mixto anti cuchero (grilled, marinated seafood) and an assortment of beverages. I had a blueberry chilcano, a twist on a classic Peruvian cocktail that is traditionally lime, pisco and ginger ale. Kevin tried Inka Cola. My dad had a lemongrass lemonade, my uncle had a starfruit and passionfruit lemonade, and my cousin had airampo (cactus seed) and mint lemonade. The lemonades and the aji de gallina stand out in my memory.

Day 2: Sacred Valley

We were picked up early for our Sacred Valley Tour. Our tour guide, Odon, would be our tour guide for the next three days. Our first stop was the Chinchero market, known for their textiles. I feel like Odon took us to a different market instead. We were in a small area with few vendors - much smaller than what comes up if you were to Google Chinchero - and we had a demonstration on how they make thread, dye thread and weave.

Moray is an archaeological site that consists of circular terraces, a deep as 150 meters (490 feet). It is said that the terraces have different temperatures and soils with different characteristics, creating different microclimates, which allowed the Incans to farm a variety of crops in one area.

Nearby Moray is Maras, known for the salineras or salt mines, another Incan innovation. Supposedly, the Peruvians mine salt the same way today. There are thousands of pools, owned by local families, that fill with water that flows down the mountain. As the water evaporates, it leaves behind pink salt.

From here we stopped for lunch at Tunupa. Lunch itself was a buffet. The restaurant was bustling with what I imagine was a ton of other tour groups. In the back of the restaurant was a musician playing what I assume is a Peruvian wind instrument - beautiful music. We followed a path down to the “backyard” of the restaurant, where there was a stream or river.

We visited the town of Ollantaytambo, which used to be the royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti, now an archaeological site. It’s one of the significant Inca sites and one of the original cities with original buildings, was not destroyed when the Spaniards invaded . We stopped by a local house and they had a bunch of guinea pigs. A Peruvian delicacy - usually served for special occasions - is guinea pig, or cuy. Our tour guide told us about how his family has like a hundred guinea pigs, and they keep them as pets until they eat them.

That night, we went back to Calle de Medio for dinner. After dinner, we walked around town and popped into some shops.

Day 3: Cusco City Tour

Our tour started with the Statue of Jesus, which overlooks the city. Cusco is in the shape of a puma, an animal sacred to the Inca that symbolizes strength and leadership (the other sacred animals are the condor, symbolizing the heavens and spirituality, and the serpent, symbolizing wisdom and transformation. Sacsayhuaman is at its head and Qorichancha at its tail.

Q’enqo is named after the zigzag line between rocks that give the impression of a maze. The site itself has a canal cut through the rock which used to carry liquid - thought to be holy water, chicha (corn beer) or blood - or a combination of the three, as they were all used for death rituals and sacrifices. The temple itself is carved out of a giant monolith, including different rooms. Q’enqo is a holy site where the Incans made ceremonial sacrifices to the gods - I distinctly recall our tour guide said they sacrificed the youngest of the family.

The most memorable site for me is Sacsayhuaman. A field of walls made of gigantic rectangular stones, thought to have been a fortress and gathering area for ceremonies. It is an engineering marvel - how the Incans were able to 1) move the rocks from the quarry, 2) shape them into their rectangular shapes, 3) stack them on each other - without machinery. The rocks fit together so perfectly that mortar isn’t necessary to hold them together.

Qoricancha is one of the most sacred temples of the Incan empire, where the highest members of the Incan hierarchy could pay respects to their chief god, the sun (Inti) and the creator god, Viracocha. There are several temples on the grounds, including the Temple of the Sun, Temple of the moon, Temple of Venus and the stars. The Temple of the Sun is the most important, with walls of gold and a gold statue of the god, Inti. The temple is made of stone blocks that also fit together without mortar, and the walls were built in a trapezoidal shape to allow light to enter. As the Incans were astronomers, many of their buildings were constructed based on the movements of the stars, such as Qoricancha and Machu Picchu. Most of the temple was destroyed by the Spanish to build a chruch, which still stands today.

The last stop on our Cusco Tour was the Cathedral in Plaza de Armas. We skipped Puka Pukara and Tambomachay.

We dined at Uchu Peruvian Steakhouse for dinner. We had shrimp, sausage, beef steak and alpaca steak. The steaks were serve on hot rocks. The alpaca steak was dry and lean, but overall the meal was good.

Day 4: Humantay Lake

Our first hike of the trip! We were picked up at about 4AM and luckily we were able to sleep on the shuttle for the three and a half hour trip to Soraypampa. We would begin the hike at 12,690 feet and climb to Humantay Lake at 13,822 feet. I remember getting off the bus and seeing a majestic snow-covered mountain ahead of us. We passed a cluster of ecodomes before actually starting the trail. There is a restroom in the parking lot, and it costs 1 sole to use it.

The hike itself was not difficult, but we tired easily due to the altitude. At one point, our tour guide, Odon, took us in a different direction than all the other people on the trail. He called it “Odon’s Way”. We were definitely not on a trail, but found ourselves rather in a field that was walled in, with the mountain in the background. There were cows grazing in the field and we walked pretty close to one of them, who seemed totally undisturbed by us. When we got to the end of the field, Odon instructed us to climb up. Up the walls. We didn’t believe him at first, but there was literally no other way to go. The walls were at an incline, but a steep incline. It went up in little steps, like little terraces. We all shuffled - basically- our way up, taking breaks along the way. The top of the “wall” was actually the part of the trail overlooking the lake, so it was a marvelous surprise when we reached the top! Odon had given us no indication that we were that close to the lake.

It was the most turquoise water I’ve ever seen. On the far side of the lake, you could see snow (glacier) which then explains the minerals which gives the lake its brilliant color. Humantay Lake is sandwiched between the Salkantay Peak and the Humantay Mountain in the Vilcabamba mountain range of the Andes Mountain. After spending some time at the lake, soaking in the views and feeding our spirits, we hiked down and napped the bus ride back to Cusco.

My dad had made a reservation at Pachapapa, where we tried roasted cuy. It was dark out, but you could see the wood burning ovens. The cuy was not my favorite. I mostly remember it being dry and lean, like overcooked chicken breast, and for that reason it wasn’t enjoyable. I’d certainly be open to trying it again, especially if it were fried, which is the other popular way it is prepared.

Day 5: The Short Inca Trail

Alpaca Expeditions organized everything for us - including permits for the Inca Trail and tickets to Machu Picchu.

The day before, when we notified Liz, at the front desk of our hotel that we would be doing the Short Inca trail and not returning the next night, offered to give us bagged breakfasts! She had asked each of us if we wanted “cheese” or “jam” sandwiches - and she said jam. I even asked for clarification because I know ham is jamon, I remember distinctly that I said, “like strawberry jam you spread on toast?” and she said yes. My dad, my sister and I got really excited because no one every does bread and jam! So we ordered “jam.” It was ham.

Anyway, we had an early start yet again at 4AM and an hour and a half bus ride to Ollantaytambo. Here, we met the rest of our group - Jorge and Chantal, a couple from Texas - and our tour guide, Walter, gave us instructions on what to expect for the train ride, what to do when we get off the train, and where to meet him. We took the train about one and a half hours to km104, which isn't really a stop - there’s no platform or anything, the train just stops in the middle of the tracks and a ton of people get off and you're like right outside the jungle. I had done research on this and everyone says you get off at Kilometer 104 (which is true) but before actually experiencing it, I wondered, how do you know when to get off? I was afraid we’d miss it. In reality, it’s hard to miss. Not everyone but a lot of people get off here, and the tour guides do a good job at coming around to let you know it’s almost time to get off.

Once we got off the train and got our bearings, we crossed the bridge over the Urabamba River, as did everyone else. The Urabamba River is one of the sources of the Amazon River. Walter distributed our permits, and, as a group, we went through the passport checkpoint. After the checkpoint is an open area with benches for groups to assemble. There are bathrooms (BYO toilet paper), and it’s a good opportunity to apply sunscreen and bug spray.

Soon after beginning the hike, we stopped at Chachabamba, an Incan ruin on the southern bank of the Urabamba River, nestled in the green mountains. The style of building suggests it was an important religious site at the gateway to Machu Picchu, and it is thought to have been dedicated to water, as its name may possibly be translated to “Valley of the origin of the waters”. The Incans had a strong relationship with Pachamama, Mother Earth, as their livelihood was dependent on weather for good harvest. There are several ceremonial water baths, so that people could cleanse their souls before reaching Machu Picchu.

Then we hiked and hiked and hiked, mostly in the sun. The trail itself is not too strenuous. It wraps around the mountains like a ribbon draped around them, with the valley beneath. All types of tropical plants line the path, and Walter guide made it a point to show us - exemplifying the connection with nature that the Incans had.

One of the most memorable stops to me is Wiñay Wayna, another ruin, which Walter called the Gringo killer because there are hundreds of stairs. But also llamas! Wiñay Wayna is built into the hillside, and has upper and lower house complexes, united by steps and agricultural terraces. This was the toughest part of the hike - and the stairs are stone steps, so not every step was the same height, and some were very steep. Llamas seemed to be freely roaming and grazing on the terraces.

We hiked a little more to the lunch tent, where a hot meal was waiting for us. The chefs and porters had gotten to the lunch camp before us; they are accustomed to the hike and the altitude and are familiar with the trail so they move fast. There may even be a designated porter trail which I imagine is very steep. The food was nothing spectacular, but not at all bad either - definitely beats a trail sandwich that would have been warm and crushed in my day pack. I remember the drinking water was warm and they served a soup, even though it was quite hot. That being said, it was really nice to have a real meal, to sit and to be in the shade (lunch is in an actual tent. There were bathrooms here too (again, BYO TP).

We continued our journey to Inti Punku, the Sun Gate - catching our first glimpses of Machu Picchu. We took a break here before descending down to Machu Picchu itself. Inti Punku is nestled on the side of Machu Picchu Mountain and at about 300 meters higher than Machu Picchu, it offers a fantastic vantage point to admire all of Machu Picchu. It was one of the main entrances to Machu Picchu, strategically positioned to protect the citadel as a control gate for anyone who wanted to enter or leave Machu Picchu.

We reached Machu Picchu around 16:30 or 17:00 - just in time for golden hour. It was mostly empty, except for other groups that had done the same hike as us (it closes at 17:30; the main entrance closes at 16:00). Walter took us around to all the best photo op spots and we were able to enjoy our time leisurely soaking it all in.

We took the bus down to Aguas Calientes town which took 25 minutes. The bus route is switchbacks pretty much the entire way. We checked into our hotel (which Alpaca Expeditions arranged for us, Hotel Santuario Machu Picchu), relaxed a bit and took a shower. We met up with our tour group for dinner (included in our tour) at a restaurant with huge portions. Each beverage came in a glass that was probably a full liter. Most of us had mint lemonade and fish - but like, an entire fish. At dinner, we got to bond with Walter, Jorge and Chantal. After dinner, we returned to the hotel, prepared for the next day and slept. We should have explored Aguas Calientes more but we were so tired. We walked around town just a little bit. We didn't get to see much of it because the next day was busy too.  Aguas Calientes is located in the Urabamba Valley, known for its thermal baths (which we unfortunately did not have the opportunity to enjoy).

Day 6: Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu

We got to sleep in! Comparatively anyway, since most days we were up around 3AM and picked up at 4AM. We met our group at 5:30am. Our guide let us leave some of our things at a local restaurant that the tour guides and porters use as a "hang out" - so we didn't need to carry all our gear to Machu Picchu. We took the bus back up to Machu Picchu, entered the park. Machu Picchu opens at 6AM. One of the great things about staying in Aguas Calientes is that you get into the park early; however, there are so many other tour groups that there are still a lot of people entering, but nothing like the late morning or middle of the day.

Walter gave us a tour and history for a couple hours. Machu Picchu is at 15th century Incan citadel, known to some as the Lost City of the Incas. The Incans did not have a written language, so everything that is known about Machu Picchu and the Incans is from historians and archaeologists. It is thought that Machu Picchu was constructed in the mid-1400’s by the great Incan ruler Pachacutec Inca Yupanaqui as a royal estate. It is estimated that about 750 lived in the citadel as staff. Here, too, has agricultural terraces we’d seen elsewhere - equipped with good drainage and to prevent erosion of the land.

The primary sites within Machu Picchu are the Main Temple, Intihuatana, the Temple of the Sun and the Temple of the Three Windows.

The Main Temple is located in the religious center of Machu Picchu, where the most important religious ceremonies were held, including animal sacrifices.

Intihuatana is a notable ritual stone associated with the Incan calendar - basically a sun dial. On June 21st, it casts its longest shadow on the south side of the rock and on December 21st it casts its shortest shadow on the north side. It is the only one that has been discovered, as all others were destroyed by the Spanish when they invaded, fearing it (and therefore the Incan religion) would undermine their political agenda.

The Temple of the Sun has a platform, the Serpent’s Door that views Huayna Picchu, and two trapezoidal windows: the Solstice Window and the Qullqa Window. The northwest edge of the rock platform points out the Solstice Window to where the rising sun would have appeared on the summer solstice in the 15th century. The Incan constellation, Qullqa, could be viewed out of the Qullqa Window on the summer solstice.

The Temple of the Three Windows is a trapezoidal wall with three trapezoidal windows, flanked by one enclosed window on each side. It is thought that this temple was to honor the gods of the heavenly world (Hanan pacha), the earthly world (Kay pacha) and the underworld (Uku pacha), and that the enclosed windows were where offerings were left to the gods.

There are different styles of architecture, which reflect the different purposes of the buildings. For example, the buildings where the lower class people lived are visually and structurally different from buildings in the royalty area. Many of the buildings in the central area of Machu Picchu have the classical Incan style of dry stone walls without mortar. Trapezoidal windows are esthetic but also stabilizing, to protect against any seismic activity; Machu Picchu was built on fault lines - it is thought to be deliberate - for breaking rocks that could be use for construction and for agricultural drainage.

We saw the Inca Bridge, which was part of a secret entrance to Machu Picchu for the Incan army. The trail is carved into the rock face, and the Inca Bridge itself would be tree trunks that bridge from one side of the rock trail to the other.

I had reserved us permits to hike Huayna Picchu Mountain, the tall mountain that sits behind Machu Picchu. After spending hours in the park, we exited the park, and re-entered to get to the Huayna Picchu Trail. Walter said it would take us 45 minutes to get to the top and none of us believed him (he did not accompany us up, but made sure we knew to be back to catch the bus in time to catch our train from town). It took us two hours to go up and down, including spending time at the top. The trail was strenuous and steep but so fun. It reminded me of Angel's Landing in Zion NP.

We bid farewell to our friends Jorge and Chantal and took the bus down to Aguas Calientes. We caught our train from Aguas Calientes to Poroy (3.5hrs) - a beautiful ride! - where a driver was waiting for us to take us back to our Cusco hotel (30min). This last leg was cool because it was an Alpaca Expeditions bus, driving people who had done other longer, cooler treks, like Salkantay or the full Inca trail which is 4 or 5 days, so we had a chance to hear about their adventures too.

Once back in Cusco and having dropped off our bags at the hotel, we had dinner down the street at Jack's Café. One of the previous times we were there, Chris had an alpaca burger as a snack - I’d had a bite and it was delish, and I was looking forward to this alpaca burger upon returning from Machu Picchu. It did not disappoint! After dinner, I’m sure we all crashed after the exciting adventure to one of the Seven Wonders and a long day of travel.

Day 7: Rainbow Mountain

A shuttle picked us up at 4AM and we took a three hour, rocky bus ride to the trailhead (beware, if you’re prone to carsickness). When we arrived, we waited a couple minutes on the bus as the tour staff set up tables and began to cook us breakfast. They made a spread of coffee, hot chocolate, teas, bread, fruit salad, and eggs. Our tour guide, Reuben, told us to make sure we eat enough. As he was talking, he was spooning sugar into a cup of coffee - spoon after spoon after spoon. I think that was all anyone could pay attention to. He said he needed the sugar for energy for the hike.

The trail to Rainbow Mountain starts at 14,300 feet. There were a lot of other people ascending alongside us, but the trail is wide so it never felt too crowded. It’s about two miles to the top - a steady, gradual incline that you would think absolutely nothing of if you hiked (walked) the same course here. But because of the elevation, it was work.

I have three distinct memories of the hike up. First, there are locals with alpacas and llamas using the trail too. We stopped to take pictures with an alpaca that was dressed up and having a snack. Second, toward the top, my thighs would be burning after taking three steps. I would rest and take another three steps. The altitude is real. Third, there are toilets on the way - which is great, because the elevation makes you need to pee more often (I later learned it’s to prevent respiratory alkalosis). You have to pay to use the toilets, but it’s not expensive. I also remember by thighs burning while squatting to pee.

It is very crowded at the end of the trail, as people are resting and enjoying the view. The trail doesn’t take you to the top of Rainbow Mountain, but rather a couple hundred feet below the summit - at 16,520 feet - so you can appreciate the colors. The different colors are due to different minerals, and are more vibrant when the sun is out as opposed to in cloud coverage.

There is an alternate way down that my cousin took, to see the Red Mountain and Red Valley. It requires going up higher from the end of the Rainbow Mountain trail, so I was not about to do that. From his photos, though, it looked like he went to Mars.

I don’t remember if going down was significantly easier than going up. I do remember there was the cutest pup that followed us all the way back to the bus. When we reached the bus, hot lunch was waiting for us. We enjoyed lunch then headed back to Cusco.

For dinner that night, we treated ourselves to Cicciolina, a restaurant that was recommended by a friend of mine whose girlfriend had lived in Cusco for a year. It was more a tapas and wine bar than a sit down meal. The food was good, but it didn’t wow us like some of the other restaurants we had tried.

Day 8: Head Home

We had an early flight out of Cusco at 7AM, and a long travel day with layovers in Lima and San Salvador. We landed in JFK at 10PM and still had to drive home.

Concluding Thoughts

It’s always a good idea to be up-to-date with your Hepatitis A and B, MMR, TDAP, etc - you know, the usuals. I would recommend talkign with your physician to see if there are any other vaccinations recommended for your travel. At the time that we went, it was recommended to be vaccinated against typhoid and malaria but these guidelines can change. We also talked to our physician about medication to prevent or combat altitude sickness (Diomox).

Staying well-hydrated is another tool to prevent altitude sickness. I brought along electolyte tablets to add into my water bottle. Since our trip to Peru, I do this regularly if I anticipate being dehydrated or if I intend to do strenuous hiking, and I try to drink electrolytes daily even in my water bottle when I go to work.

The altitude will make you pee more often to prevent alkalosis. Since you are breathing heavier, your body works to excrete bicarbonate via your kidneys to prevent rising pH in your body.

The sun is stronger at higher altitude, so even if you’re not hot, wear sunscreen and maybe a hat.

Mornings are cold, but day time warmed up to 60-70's. I was in a tank top for the Inca Trail. Everyday, though, I brought my packable raincoat, packable down jacket, and an under Armour cold gear shirt or wool baselayer.

For the Short Inca Trail, I brought my 24L day pack with my hydration bladder. In my day pack, I had flipflops (for comfort after wearing hiking boots all day), PJs, my packable down (puffy), packable raincoat, toiletries, passport and maybe some snacks. I brought my hiking poles, and they can attach to the side of my pack.

The Short Inca trail is 10.5km, or 6.5 miles long. It starts at 2150 meters above sea level (7,054 feet) at Chachabamba and reaches a maximum altitude of 2750 meters above sea level (9,022 feet) at Intipuku. Machu Picchu is at 2450 meters above sea level (8,038 feet) and Aguas Calientes is at 2300 meters above sea level (6,693 feet).

In modern Cusco, people do not finish the outsides of their houses to avoid paying taxes. Driving around the city, many buildings have no rooves and have unfinished cement supports and floors.

I highly recommend Alpaca Expeditions. Very organized, treated like VIP, guides fluent in English, patient while we took pictures and even pointed out good photo ops. 

A lot of food is organic and locally grown and delicious. Quinoa and potatoes were a common theme.

When shopping, definitely haggle. They expect it and you can get a good deal.

Beware of what people deem to be legitimate alpaca wool. I’m pretty sure the sweaters, gloves, scarves, we got were not real alpaca wool. I still love them as souvenirs and they were not expensive.

Flying to the southern hemisphere takes longer than you’d expect, because of the curvature of the Earth. Granted, we had layovers, but when you look at a map, you think it’d be a couple hours less than what it actually is because of the curvature of the Earth.

Traveling in South America is pretty affordable. Our total cost per person, including flights, hotel and tours, was under $2500 for the week. At the time that we went, it cost $500 for the Short Inca trail, plus $75 for the additional excursion to the Huayna Picchu, and $150 for Rainbow Mountain. Because we had done the Short Inca trail with Alpaca Expeditions, they supposedly gave us a discounted rate for Rainbow Mountain.

As our first trip to South America, we had a great time. everyone was so nice, the food was good and fresh and it was beautiful. There’s just a vibe there that you don’t get anywhere else. Can’t wait to visit South America again!