Japan 101
Japan will forever hold a special place in our hearts.
As of writing this (2023), we have been to Japan twice and cannot wait to go back. Japan is everything you wish your life to be - it is clean, delicious, polite, respectful, beautiful, cultural, wholesome. I think it’s impossible to leave without being so happy but also wanting more.
The first time we went to Japan, we worked around tight scheduling restrictions (graduation and a wedding), and even though it was a quick trip, we are so grateful to have been able to make it happen. It was an eight day trip in May, with five days on the ground. Two lessons learned right away: 1) you need way more than five days and 2) it is hot and humid in May! We made home base in Shinagawa (Tokyo) and Kyoto, and from there, visited Nikko, Nara and Osaka.
The second time we went to Japan, we had more flexibility and we were able to plan more strategically. It was an 11-day trip with eight full days on the ground in the beginning of April. Cherry blossom season is typically the end of March and beginning of April, and it changes year to year. Lately, it seems like it is getting slightly earlier with each year. Our goal was to visit during cherry blossom season, but again, had scheduling restrictions (another wedding and other commitments). We missed peak bloom, but still got to experience hanami (“flower viewing”) and the beauty of sakura. For this trip, we made home base in Shinjuku (Tokyo), Kyoto and Hiroshima.
The best way for foreigners to get around is with the Japan Rail Pass. The times we went, it cost about $250USD (per person) for 7-days, which paid off with our travel between Tokyo and Kyoto. The JR Pass also gives you access to the Shinkansen (bullet trains) and JR local lines (not the metro lines). As of October 1, 2023, the price increased significantly, so depending on where in Japan you're visiting, it may or may not pay off. The JR website has a calculator to help determine if it is worth it for you. You can purchase your JR Pass online ahead of time (I think three months in advance). When you land in Japan, visit the JR office to swap out your voucher for the JR pass itself. It is good for seven days (or 14 or 21 if you choose that option), so think about which day you want to activate it to get the most use. For example, if you’ll be in Tokyo for the first few days, then traveling on the Shinkansen around the rest of the country, activate it when you plan to leave Tokyo, since you can get around Tokyo itself for a couple hundred yen (a few dollars) here and there; riding the Shinkansen is more expensive if you were to pay out of pocket. While at the JR office, you may also opt to get a Welcome Suica (there have been recent changes about this as well - Japan is transitioning away from physical Suica cards for its residents, in favor of having it on their phones or watches, but I believe they are keeping the Welcome Suica for foreigners). Suica is essentially a debit card, to be used for the metro, buses, can be used at convenience stores and some vending machines, but it cannot be used everywhere.
There are two Tokyo airports: Narita (NRT) and Haneda (HND). Narita is a little ways outside the city and requires a train ride into the city. Haneda is closer to the city, and will require a 13 minute monorail ride (covered by the JR pass) to Hamamatsucho Station, where you can transfer to the Yamanote JR line (green), which takes circular route around Tokyo with access to the biggest areas, such as Tokyo, Ueno, Shinagawa, Shinjuku, Shibuya.
REAL TALK: Japan will ruin food for you. You will never be able to enjoy sushi or beef in the US again. There is nothing quite like food in Japan, they have really perfected their craft. So, only visit Japan if you can accept this as a fact of life.
Google maps is reliable in Japan. One thing that may be tricky, though, is that they are ahead of us in terms of technology and safety. Because Tokyo is a big city with lots of pedestrians, they have designated pedestrian walkways, especially around the bigger stations, which may be above-ground or below-ground. Because of this, it may seem like your Google maps directions don’t make sense, like it wants you to cross a major road, but it knows better than you and is probably trying to lead you to an underground pedestrian walkway to safely get to where you want to go.
Many major stations have coin lockers, where you can store your luggage while you explore for the day. Coin lockers are so convenient, because you'll more than likely be coming back to the station again anyway to travel to your next destination. You could probably leave your luggage at your hotel, but then you’d have to go back to your hotel to collect your luggage before going to the station. The cost of the coin lockers vary by size and I think location too. We rented a coin locker in Kanazawa that was big enough to store our both our backpacks for 500 yen (less than five dollars).
Another logistical advancement that we loved was that you could ship your luggage from one hotel to another. It's easy and affordable, and this way you don't have to worry about taking luggage on the train (if you take the Shinkansen, you may need to book a seat that has luggage space, especially for any bag bigger than a carryon. The trains do have an overhead shelf for bags) or through the streets. The concierge at your hotel can help you fill out the forms and walk you through the process. They verified that the receiving hotel had our room reservation (that we were actually staying there, so our bags wouldn't get lost or be sent somewhere we wouldn't be) and that they accepted luggage shipments. We did this from Tokyo to Kyoto, and again from Kyoto to Hiroshima, through Yamato Transport (the one with the cat logo). The rate is dependent on several factors, including where you're shipping to/from, the size of your bag. Upon checking out, they helped us fill out the paperwork, and we left our suitcases with them. From Kyoto to Hiroshima, it was about $30 for two carry-on sized suitcases. They arrive the next day.
There are no garbage cans on the streets, yet it is the cleanest country I have ever visited. You may opt to bring your own little garbage bag with you each day. Plastic bags cost extra, so you may consider bringing your own reusable shopping bags.
Japan used to be primarily a cash based society. It has gotten better since covid (contactless), but still good to carry cash, especially since the dollar is strong. You will need cash for street food vendors, in markets and small shops. Keep 100 yen coins for coin lockers, vending machines, gachapons, ticket kiosks (like buses). If you have a Suica card, cash is required to refill the card at the machines (in stations). You may want to bring a little coin purse too because we had a lot of coins at some points throughout our trip.
As I alluded to earlier, people in Japan are very polite. They are also very organized. You’ll notice at train stations, there are lines on the ground that indicate where to line up. If multiple trains service that platform, there may be different colors corresponding to the different trains and they usually will also match with where the doors of the train open. Line up to wait for your train, don’t stand just anywhere on the platform like we do in the US. And let everyone get off before you get on. In general, it is common courtesy to be quiet on the trains - you can talk, but do so quietly. When the train is crowded, take off your backpack or wear it on your front side (you’ll see a lot of people doing this). It is rude to eat or drink on the train, bus or while walking - which, as an American, I’m often eating on the go so this was tough for me. Trains run on time and are very reliable (it made the news when a train was a couple minutes late, they apologize when they leave the station 20 seconds early). Buses for the most part too are on time, so don't be late and hold everyone else up (there was one girl who was late to one of our highway express buses and I couldn't fully understand but it seemed like the bus driver shamed her for holding us up). There are designated areas at the ends of train cars for "priority" (expecting mothers, elderly, people who have a red medical tag, etc) - don’t sit there if you don’t qualify. There are also "women only" cars (apparently there is a problem with up-skirting although I've never encountered it).
Pack light. If you're staying in actual hotels (not airbnb), they mostly all provide you with toothbrush and toothpaste, comb, razor, soap/shampoo. There are plenty of shops if you want to buy clothes there too. Plus you'll want space in your luggage to bring home all your souvenirs so you don't have to purchase additional luggage while you're there like we did!
In terms of what to wear, I noticed that Japanese ladies wear flowy skirts (knee length, mid calf or ankle length), and I think I was the only one that showed my shoulders. I'm not sure if this is cultural or if it was because the 70 degree weather was hot to me but not to them. When we were in Japan in May, I wore tank tops and shorts and never felt uncomfortable or like people were looking at me funny. That being said, I hope I didn't offend anyone or break any rules. I do know that you are not supposed to wear yukata (the robe-like thing) to temples, and you will need to take off your shoes for certain places. Definitely wear comfortable walking shoes because you will be walking a lot!
There are vending machines everywhere for drinks (and cigarettes). I brought my reusable water bottle and didn’t use it once.
Restaurants often give you a little basket to put your belongings in so that you don't need to put your bag on the floor.
Bidets are everywhere. Public toilets also have an option to play white noise or like a waterfall sound for privacy, so people can't hear what you're doing in your stall. Some public bathrooms have the old school hole in the ground, but for the most part, those same bathrooms will have stalls with normal toilets.
Use crosswalks, don't jay walk, and wait until the sign tells you to walk. And enjoy the “be-boo” sounds as you cross!